IT’S a place not many people are aware of, I certainly wasn’t.
Bowness-on-Solway provided the perfect retreat – the marsh, country pubs, a cosy stay – I’m not sure where to start.
An area famous for the beginning (or end) of the Hadrian’s Wall Walk, it still dazzled in the spring sunshine with a quieter atmosphere.
The history of the place, situated on the Roman fort of Maia, was also overwhelming.
From faded railways to men in suits being sent in to investigate a dubious picture; it really was fascinating to learn.
A lovely sunset (Image: visitlakedistrict.com)
Welcoming hosts
Arriving on a dark, foggy night seemed quite ominous, with only the Anthorn Radio Station masts in the far distance providing light, but this quickly evaporated when meeting the friendly locals.
Barry and Michelle were as welcoming as could be.
A great stay was enjoyed at the Wallsend Guest House (Image: Wallsend Guest House)
Opening the doors to their gorgeous home at the Wallsend Guest House which gave great freedom and wonderful comfort.
The side room, where drinks and a scene for ponderation lied, was a personal favourite of mine. I could just imagine how vibrant and conversational that setting becomes during peak season.
I was told by locals that this traditionally runs from May until October.
Walkers come from as far as America and the Netherlands to experience this quaint village before or after they embark on the 84-mile long National Trail stretching coast to coast across northern England, from Wallsend, Newcastle upon Tyne to Bowness-on-Solway.
The Kings Arm pub (Image: visitlakedistrict.com)
Pub had modern twist along with community feel
It’s at The Kings Arms Inn where they usually gather.
Standing for over 400 years, the family-run pub has a modern twist whilst still enjoying that countryside community-feel where everyone knows one another.
Wander three miles down the road and you will find the Highland Laddie Pub in Glasson – under the same owners, in its infancy, the venue offers that contemporary feel once again.
Expectedly both boozers were low on numbers, given it was off-season in the area, nevertheless they provided a comfortable place to spend one’s evening.
There is a cycle route around the village (Image: Discover Carlisle Photography)
Taking in the scenery on a cycle ride
And that was certainly needed following a breath-taking, literally and metaphorically, cycle on the Hadrian’s Cycleway (NCN 72).
The route allowed us to take in the glorious coastline as we travelled up to Anthorn before stopping off at a lovely village called Kirkbride.
Replenished by Lucozade and chocolate, the ride back through the countryside was as therapeutic.
A big shout out to Mike Kinsella, the man behind Border City Cycle Hire, who gave us two superb mountain bikes for the journey.
A landscape of Bowness-on-Solway (Image: Wallsend Guest House)
A faded railway
Whilst speaking to people in the village, two pieces of history really stood out to me.
The Bowness-on-Solway railway was part of the Solway Junction Railway, featuring a 1-mile-long iron viaduct across the Solway Firth, connecting Cumbria and Annan in Scotland.
Opening in around 1870, the line operated for more than half a century, its demise was a sad tale as it never really recovered from the effect of World War One.
It shut in 1921 and was demolished 13 years later but small remains are still visible today.
As we took in the sunset from a lovely spot known to walkers, spectacles of the viaduct could be seen in the distance.
Beginning/end of Hadrian’s Wall Footpath (Image: Discover Carlisle Photography)
Was a spaceman seen?
It is on the marsh where the infamous ‘Solway Spaceman’ picture was taken.
All the way back in May 1964, a firefighter and keen amateur photographer took a picture of his five-year-old daughter Elizabeth on the Solway coast which led Britain into a frenzy.
Having not seen anything strange when initially capturing the image, Jim Templeton was shocked to see a large white figure, resembling that of a spaceman in the background when the colour films came back from the chemist.
The story gained national coverage at the time, with Templeton even claiming two men in dark suits, who went by “Number 9” and “Number 11”, questioned him back at Burgh Marsh.
It has since been said that the ‘spaceman’ is in fact his wife, captured with her back to the camera and over‑exposed against the bright sky, but the firefighter never accepted this.
Right up until his death in 2011 he maintained the figure was real.
A truly intriguing tale – one of which I had never heard of.
Rowena Beaty at work (Image: Rowena Beaty)
Wonderful art trial
Back to more factual matters now and who would have thought such a small village would possess a vibrant creative scene.
From stone carving to abstract painting to woodturning, I was amazed to witness several incredible artists, in their own rights, at work.
Roger Golding’s work (Image: Roger Golding)
Roger Golding showcased his beautiful landscape prints while Rowena Beaty’s attention to detail with her figurative sculptures was mind-blowing.
A visit to Alison Critchlow’s studio in the village was a pleasure – her abstract paintings are a thing of mystery and endless meanings.
Alison Critchlow’s studio (Image: Alison Critchlow)
They each partake in the “Around the Island” studio art trail – which usually occurs every September – another event that has attracted people from across the country in the many years it has been going.
Woodturner Jonathan Leech at work (left) and one of his self-made lampshades (Image: Jonathan Leech)
My trail ended with another participant, Jonathan Leech.
He somehow turns Cumbrian wood into the most luxurious products, including unique fruit bowls and lampshades.
Overall, I would thoroughly recommend a weekend away to Bowness-on-Solway if you are after a picturesque setting, full of character, and history.