M&S, New Look and Sainsbury’s join Oxfam textile recycling project in Batley

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M&S, New Look and Sainsbury’s join Oxfam textile recycling project in Batley

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A coalition of major retailers has launched a joint initiative to transform discarded garments into reusable raw materials, with West Yorkshire positioned to serve as a central hub for the programme.

The inaugural stage of the project is scheduled to commence in January at Oxfam’s facility located in Batley, within the Kirklees district.

Participating retailers have united with Circle-8, a recently established enterprise that has created a framework connecting retailers, recovery operators, recycling firms, manufacturers and digital technology companies.

Named The Circuit, the scheme will develop pathways for pre-owned fabrics to undergo sorting processes and preparation for conversion into secondary raw materials.

The objective involves extracting, categorising and treating garments that cannot be donated or resold, subsequently converting them into novel or developing fibres suitable for garment production.

Automated textile sorting capabilities will be investigated at the Batley location.

Additionally, monitoring and reporting tools will be established to enhance supply chain visibility, recognise possibilities for incorporating recycled content and cultivate connections with processing companies.

The consortium will formulate strategic operational blueprints to enable system expansion and implementation across greater volumes.

Support will also be extended to both mechanical and chemical recycling technologies aimed at extracting materials destined for textile production facilities operating within Britain and international markets.

As part of the undertaking, Oxfam will undertake the separation of garments fit for continued use from those unsuitable for donation while managing the automated sorting apparatus, according to collaborating parties.

This collaboration follows investigation conducted by the waste reduction organisation Wrap, which documented that 1.4 million tonnes of fabric items were disposed of throughout Britain during 2024.

Analysis indicates that approximately one half of this total comprised textiles deemed unsuitable for rewear.

Research published by Parliament’s Environmental Audit Committee suggests that merely 30 percent of worn garments find secondary markets within Britain.

The balance is exported abroad, frequently concluding in extensive landfill sites situated in developing nations such as Ghana and Pakistan.

Speaking on behalf of Oxfam, retail director Rachel Cosgrove-Pearce commented that the organisation has been extending the lifespan of donated garments for almost eight decades, and evidence accumulated during that period demonstrates that prolonging garment utility represents one of the most efficient strategies for diminishing fashion’s environmental consequences.

She elaborated that the sector simultaneously requires enhanced systems for managing textiles that have become unwearable or incapable of serving any other purpose.

According to Ms Cosgrove-Pearce, constructing facilities capable of extracting valuable fibres from textiles at the conclusion of their functional life constitutes a significant component of establishing a fashion sector that consumes fewer primary resources and generates reduced ecological damage, and The Circuit consolidates the specialised knowledge and capital investment necessary to advance this objective significantly.

Representatives of the partnership indicated that the initiative could stimulate broader economic activity within Britain by fostering employment creation and manufacturing prospects.

They further noted that coordinated action spanning the entire sector would prove essential to establishing a more resource-efficient fashion economy.

Sainsbury’s Tu Clothing managing director Ben Smith observed that achieving increased circularity within the textile sector would demand cooperative efforts and inventive approaches across the entire supply chain.

He stated that The Circuit presents a promising avenue for engaging with contributors from every segment of the production and distribution network to examine how post-consumer textiles collected within Britain might be repurposed as valuable input materials.

M&S head of sustainability and materials in fashion Katharine Beacham asserted that the retailer maintains the position that garments worn and appreciated for extended periods represent the most environmentally responsible choice.

She explained that when textiles reach a point where they can no longer serve their original purpose, improved mechanisms for reclaiming and reprocessing the constituent materials become essential.

Circle-8 Textile Ecosystems chief executive Cyndi Rhoades declared that retailers contributing to the establishment of circular textile value chains at present will occupy the strongest positions to shape and derive advantage from such systems in subsequent years.

She indicated that through The Circuit, the essential partnerships, infrastructure and commercial structures required to achieve this transition are being developed.

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